Furnace Installation

NOTE: Installation must be made by a qualified heating equipment installer (one who is engaged in, and is responsible for, or is thoroughly familiar with the installation and operation of gas, oil, and solid fuel burning heating appliances, who is experienced in such work and familiar with all the building requirements and/or fire codes of the authority having local jurisdiction.)

This is a furnace, not a stove. Heated air must be directed away from the furnace or it will not operate properly.

1. The installation is to be completed in accordance with National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) installation standards No. 89M, 90B, 211, 70 (National Electrical Code) and Uniform Mechanical Code 913, 6-4 in states where applicable (where code offers making flue pipe connections into an existing chimney with other fuel burning appliances).

2. Wood /coal burning appliances need air for combustion and circulation to the house. Provision must be made to provide make up air so as not to starve the central heating system of combustion air. Have the local regulating authority determine that make up air supply is adequate. Reference NFPA standards No. 30 & 54, Code for Installation of Gas and Oil Equipment.

3. Have the local regulating authority or qualified expert inspect all chimneys and installations for adequate venting and for compliance with standard local codes and regulations regarding installation of wood/coal burning appliances. (Also see Pipe Installation)

4. Position the furnace according to clearances (see figure 1, figure 2, figure 3) and to maintain
   chimney connections as short as possible. Avoid unnecessary turns and installation of devices that would create excessive resistance to the flow of flue gases.

5. Make flue pipe connections to the chimney with 24-gauge pipe and elbows (not included with furnace) maintaining proper clearances. Seal the flue pipe in the chimney with furnace cement. (Chimney connections must be securely supported and joints fastened with sheet metal screws or rivets.)

6. For parallel installations, install (two) 8" anti-backdraft butterfly dampers (Vogelzang Model AD-8, not included with the furnace) in the heat (duct) pipes a minimum of 18 inches above the furnace plenum. Anti-backdraft butterfly dampers may be obtained where you purchased your appliance or from a local HVAC distributor.

7. Install 8˝ diameter 26-gauge heat (duct) pipe and connectors (not included with furnace) to make connection to the plenum of the central heating system. The heat pipe, plenum, and connections must be constructed of metal with a minimum temperature rating of 250° F. If central air conditioning is installed in the plenum, install heat pipe above the air conditioning unit. Secure the heat pipe connection with supports and sheet metal screws.

8. Make electrical supply connections in the electrical junction box and connect power supply wires to designated wires using wire nuts (see wiring diagram figure 7 and figure 8). The power cord supplied may be used for installation if local codes and regulations permit. If not permitted, power supply wiring must be minimum of 18-ga. AWG copper and rated for 90° Centigrade installed in a metal cable or conduit. Power connections should be made by a qualified installer to comply with NFPA Standard No. 70 and all local codes and regulations.

Chimney Connections

DRAFT
Chimneys perform two functions.

1. As a means of exhausting smoke and flue gases which are the result of fuel combustion.

2. The chimney provides “draft” which allows oxygen to be continuously introduced into the appliance, so that proper combustion is possible.

NOTE: your furnace does NOT create draft.

Draft is a function of the chimney. A minimum of 0.05 w.c.,( measured in water column) is required for proper drafting to prevent back-puffing, smoke spillage, and to maximize performance. (Gauges to measure chimney draft are readily available at furnace shops and are economical to purchase or rent.)

As of April 1, 1987 all coal stoves should be installed using a factory built chimney that meets the “Type HT” requirement of UL 103 (when using a factory built chimney).

IMPORTANT INSTALLATION POINTS

1. Size the chimney flue to the furnace pipe. (6" outlet pipe = 6" chimney flue.)

2. Avoid using elbows except as necessary. Elbows reduce draft, no more than two should be used in any chimney run.

3. Make sure all horizontal runs of connector pipe have a minimum outward rise of 1/4" per horizontal foot. This allows any condensation or creosote buildup to run back into the firebox.

Manufactured Chimney
REFER TO CHIMNEY AND CHIMNEY CONNECTOR MAKER'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION AND USE.

Carefully follow chimney manufacturer’s instructions. Use only a listed chimney. If your chimney starts at the ceiling (see figure 13 and figure 14) you will need enough 6” round black connector pipe to reach the ceiling. The top of the chimney must be at least three (3) feet above the roof and be at least two (2) feet higher than any point of the roof within ten (10) feet (figure 13). Use only 6” diameter listed chimney UL 103 HT. Chimney made to this listing is High Temperature rated to 2100 degrees Fahrenheit. Use chimney from only one manufacturer. Never mix brands. Carefully follow the chimney manufacturer’s stated requirements and clearances. Use the chimney manufacturer’s attic guards, roof supports, flashing and fire stops when passing through a ceiling. Use a listed thimble when passing through a combustible wall. Do not use makeshift compromises during installation. Never use a single-wall connection pipe as a chimney! NEVER USE A SINGLE-WALL CONNECTION PIPE AS A CHIMNEY!

Barometric Draft Regulator Setting

1. Drill a hole in the chimney connector within 18" of the flue collar below the barometric draft regulator just large enough for the tube of the manometer.

2. Build a fire after all chimney connections have been made.

3. Use a manometer to measure the draft in the flue.

4. Adjust the Barometric Draft Regulator to obtain a draft of 0.05" - 0.06" W.C. under stable fire conditions.

5. After all adjustments have been made, seal the hole made for the manometer tube with furnace cement.

Operating Instructions

Coal Burning Tips

The size of coal fuel is critical - too large and it won’t burn well, too small and it will smother the fire creating excessive smoke and gases. Purchase Bituminous coal “nuggets” that are 1-3/4” to 4” diameter and that have been “cleaned” to remove rocks and other minerals.

Bituminous coal is recommended for ease of use but produces a greater amount of volatile gases so it is important to build and refresh coal fires properly. Extra maintenance will also be required to remove accumulated
soot on heating surfaces and pipes.

All fires should be initially started using wood kindling. Hardwood is best as it creates a hotter bed of coals that is necessary to ignite the coal.

Once a hot bed of wood coals has been established an initial layer of coal may be placed in the firebox. Due to the high amount of volatile gas produced by coal, the initial flames will be long and of an orange or yellow color accompanied by quite a bit of smoke. As the gas is burned off the flames will become shorter, the color will change and less smoke will be produced.

Once the fire is well established, add coal to the center of the firebox in a conical arrangement. The highest
part of the fuel should be in the center of the fire box. This allows the heat to drive off the volatile gases and the turbulence created causes a more efficient burn.

Remember to allow enough secondary air to enter the fire box and keep the stove pipe damper open to properly burn off the volatile gases. You will have to experiment with your particular setup (fire construction,
fuel load, spin draft control, damper and automatic settings) as no two arrangements of furnace/chimney are the same.

When refueling a coal fire, use a poker to break up any crust that may have formed being careful not to mix the coal which may increase the chance of forming “clinkers.”

Banking a Coal Fire

A fire should be banked for extended operation without tending, such as overnight. This is accomplished by heaping the fuel along the sides and back of the fire box so that the fire gradually burns through the fuel. This reduces the intensity of the fire without letting it go out.

Use the same procedures as in refueling but without shaking the grates. The layer of ash will help to reduce the intensity of the fire. After loading the fuel in this manner, let the fire establish itself for about 30 minutes then close the damper and adjust the automatic control to a point so that the house does not get too cold. Make sure you leave yourself enough time to bank the fire before leaving or retiring so you can make the necessary adjustments after the fire has become well established.

Reviving a Fire

To revive a fire that has almost gone out, increase the draft through the grates by opening the ash door and stove pipe damper and closing the door spin draft control(s). Place a thin layer of new coal over the entire fire but DO NOT SHAKE the fire grates. Doing so may cause the live coals to drop through the grates. Once the fresh layer of coal has ignited you may shake the grates (slightly) and refuel as usual.

Blower Limit Control Settings
 

The temperature in the plenum of the warm air furnace at which the blower turns on or off, is controlled by the blower limit control settings. Indicators (see figure 7 and figure 8) in the control may be adjusted through their entire range of settings to achieve the desired warm air output (see figure 15). Move both pointers towards the right (counter clockwise) – this increases the temperature setting at which the blower will turn on and off. Move both pointers towards the left (clockwise) – this decreases the on/off temperature setting. Increasing the distance between the pointers increases the time the blower will run on each warm air cycle.

Fig. 15 - Blower Limit Control Settings

Power Failure Instructions

Operation during power loss:
Do not expect to keep home at normal temperatures.
1. Remove filter if provided.
2. Reduce fire to a low burn.
3. Set bimetal thermostat on LOW setting and set spin draft on ash door to a minimum of one turn open.
4. Do not load fuel above bottom of feed door.

Blower Fan and Motor Care

Oil blower motor(s) twice a year. Add five drops of light weight (SAE 20) oil to each oiler tube. If the blower and fan accumulate moderate to heavy dust, vacuum, wipe and/or blow dust from motor housing and fan.

Chimney Maintenance

CHIMNEY DRAFT

Do not expect the furnace to draw. Draft is a function of the chimney, NOT the furnace. Smoke spillage into the house or excessive buildup of condensation or soot in the chimney are warnings that the chimney is NOT functioning properly. Correct the problem before using the furnace. Following are some possible causes for improper draft.

1. The connector stovepipe may be pushed into the chimney too far, stopping the draft (figure 14).

2. If the chimney is operating too cool, water will condense in the chimney and run back into the furnace. Soot formation will be rapid and may block the chimney. Operate the furnace at a high enough fire level to keep the chimney warm preventing this condensation.

3. If the fire burns well but sometimes smokes or burns slowly, it may be caused by the chimney top being lower than another part of the house or a nearby tree. The wind blowing over a house or tree, falls on top of the chimney like water over a dam, beating down the smoke. The top of the chimney should be at least three (3) feet above the roof and be at least two (2) feet higher than any point of the roof within ten (10) feet.

CREOSOTE -  Formation and Removal

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. If ignited, this creosote creates an extremely hot fire which may ignite surrounding materials resulting in a building fire.

The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice a month during the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.

If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed. Failure to remove creosote may result in ignition and may cause a house/building fire. Creosote may be removed using a chimney brush or other commonly available materials from your local hardware retailer.

Chimney fires burn very hot. If the chimney connector should glow red, immediately call the fire department, then reduce the fire by closing the inlet air control and pour a large quantity of coarse salt, baking soda, or cool ashes on top of the fire in the firebox.